Business
An eye on things that glitter
Gemologist sets up shop in Vancouver to provide independent appraisals
CARLAWOLLACH
Ever wondered how much those diamonds sitting at the back of your jewelry box are actually worth? Is that a real pearl necklace or just a plastic knock-ofi? Have you wanted to get your gems appraised, but are unsure of who to take them to and, more importantly, who you can trust? This is when a qualified expert in the area is needed.
Enter Rachel Cohen, a graduate gemologist and accredited jewelry professional who's also a part of the Jewelry Judge, a network of independent gemo-logical appraisers.
The Jeweliy Judge opened for business in 1989. The network has strict membership criteria, including training requirements, and prides itself in providing its customers with "accuracy, consistency and professionalism of appraisals." There are 14 Jewelry Judge centres operating across Canada and the United States. Cohen is the only member in Western Canada.
Cohen was bom into the gem industry. Her father, a stone dealer, hdped instil and later foster her passion for gems. She jokes that as a child, while other kids were playing with marbles, she was playing with gems.
After working in both retail and wholesale jewelry, Cohen attended the Gemological Listitute in New York City. Upon receiving her graduate gemological diploma, she moved back to Vancouver tmd became a member of the Jewelry Judge. EarHer this year, Cohen opened a downtown office and now offers gemological services to the public.
Cohen is fully licensed to identify, grade and appraise gems. When chents visit her office, she involves them in the process and offers a "while you wait" service. This allows clients to imderstand the whole procedure - jmd the gems never leave their sight. At completion, Cohen provides official documentation, as well as a digital photo of the gems.
The major reason why jewelry is appraised is for insurance purposes. Other reasons include estate assessment and divorce proceedings. Independent appraisals are now in high demand. Cohen said that an outside source ensures an ethical estimate. Since she is not affiliated vidth any jewelry or gem company, her estimate will reflect the gems' true market value.
Currently, in Canada, there are no regulations governing the
qualification of gem appraisers. As a result of biased appraisals and conflict of interest, insurance companies are starting to demand that an outside source appraise an item to ensure that it is properly valued. Incorrect appraisals result in insurance premiums that do not reflect a gem's worth. In the event of lost or stolen jewelry, items that are undervalued will not be accurately replaced to the owner.
While diamonds are the most common gems that require appraisal or grading, Cohen also works a lot with rubies, emeralds and sapphires. She also sees many treasures imique to the coimtry, including Canadian jade and ammonite.
"I never know what hidden treasure will walk in the door," said Cohen. "It's like Tm part of The Antiques Road Show. The surprise on people's faces when I tell them what their jewelry is worth is one of the best parts of my job."
Over the past decade, the Canadian diamond industry has been growing rapidly. Since the discovery of many new mines in the Northwest Territories, Canada has become one of the top producers and exporters in the billion dollar industry.
Cohen said she has found her last name has been a plus, working in her chosen profession. Historically, there has always been a strong Jewish presence in the diamond industry. While De Beers is not Jewish, Gassan, Cohen & Co. and Martin Lilicnfeld & Co. are just a few names of Jewish diamond merchants that dominated the industry in the 19th century.
Jewish influence in the industry has spread across many coim-tries, sparming northern Africa, Europe and the United States. In the 18th century, when trades were establishing themselves into organized groups, Jews were not permitted to be members of guilds. However, the diamond business was not regulated and, consequently, Jews firmly estab-fished themselves in the industry. Diamonds were a natural fit for the Jewish people as the gems were easily transportable and exchangeable, important attributes for a people who were chased from their homes throughout the ages.
Cohen noted that, in the past, there has always been an element of elusiveness to jewelry appraisals. She wants to make people feci more comfortable and provide an honest, accurate and
Gem appraiser Rachel Cohen takes a closer look at a precious stone.
reliable estimate. Cohen said she Jewelry Judge, visit wwwjewel-
wants people to love and appre- ryjudge.net. □
date their jewehy - and feel that -
their gems are fitly protected. Caria Wollach is a Vancouver
For more information on the freelance writer.
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