THE CELTIC CONNECTION * JULY 1993
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Artists and Researchers Flock to Strangely Lunar Landscape of County Clare
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By SEAMUS McMAHON
jallyvaughan is a gem of a village located in the hauntingly beauti-Jful Burren area of County Clare, on the southerly shore of Galway Bay in Ireland.
The strangely, lunar landscape has attracted mystics and artists to the area for thousands of years. The Burren is dotted with neo-lithic stone circles and dolmens constructed circa 3800 BC. millenia later, the Christian monks were similarly inspired to built a cathedral at Kilfenora and an Cirstercian Abbey at Corcomroe in 1192 AD. Shelters of stone, where hermits meditated, are scattered in the more remote and wild places throughout the Burren.
There is a magical energy here that is common to all sacred places. Artists, writers, musicians and film-makers seem drawn by this magnetic pull. It is more than simply the interplay of sea, limestone mountains with the ruins of different civilizations. Artists swear that even the light is different.
Earlier this century, Lady Gregory hosted Yeats, Synge, O'Casey and others at her summer lodge at Kinvara, where they effectively jump-started the literary revival, in a movement known as the Celtic Twilight.
The alert visitor will pick up on this energy immediately. There is a buzz to the place, each encounter with the local people becomes an adventure. Everyone is a character. Your day could start with a long walk along the sea shore to observe the stunning Gulf Stream-influenced sea life during low tide. You might have a late breakfast
at the "T Junction" cafe in the village which serves excellent coffee, hot bread and other wholesome goodies. Chances are that you will engage in a mind expanding conversation with another visitor who is field researching the area.
Archaeologists, botanists, zoologists are captivated by the Burren. So interesting are the areas of study, that the photographic term "depth of field" takes on a whole new mi >ning. Beneath the surface of limtstone mountains, a labyrinth of caves and streams gives visual definition to the Celtic notion of "the other world."
Be sure to visit the Aillwee Caves. Later, have lunch at Monks Pub on the pier and enjoy a gourmet feast for seafood lovers. Afterwards, walk the many trails. You will soon understand why botanists marvel at the improbability of rare alpine and mediterranean flowers growing side-by-side in wild profusion between the cracks of the limestone surface.
Clare is famous for the music played in its pubs. Milltown Malbay, Doolin and Bally-vaughan attract musicians from all over the world. Loreena McKennitt, the Canadian singer-songwriter, drew inspiration for her album The Visit in Clare.
You can set dance the night away in Hylands Hotel or in the nearby Ballyvaughan Inn. Before dinner, drop in to MacNeill O'Loughlan's tiny pub. It is a place where time appears to stand still, so enthralling is the conversation.
Claire's Restaurant serves superb food and wine. Owner, Claire Walsh, is a brilliant host-
Pregnant Minister Dismissed by Church
IRELAND — The General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland took place recently. While many topics were discussed, it was the dismissal of a woman minister which captured the most attention. The Reverand Patricia Hanna was one of the church's
first woman ministers. She was based in Donegal. No one would say whyshe was removed from her post, but it is generally assumed that it is because she was pregnant at the time of her marriage, to Church of Ireland rector, theReverand Bob Hanna.
— Li am Ferrie
ess who has that happy knack of making her guests feel like old friends. Manus Walsh, her husband, is an artist. His enamel craftwork is beautiful. Accommodations in the village are excellent. Hylands Hotel is a family run business. En suite bedrooms are to international standards. The staff are cheerful, friendly and competent.
Guest Houses in the area are stictly vetted by The Irish Tourist Board. Another alternative is to rent an Irish cottage. These thatched cottages are located near the village and overlook the sea. For North Americans yearning to visit the "Old Country" of their ancestors, the thatched cottage is the quintissential homestead. Irish city dwellers seem to have the same need to go back to their roots. To swap stories with friends around an open turf fire is a wonderful experience. It seems to fulfill a deep longing for the spirituality of the "old ways." Fddo, F&do starts every Irish tale. Once upon a time...
The cottages combine the authenticity of the traditional Irish cottage with all the amenities of modern living. The fusion works.
The famed Aran Islands are a short ferry ride away. Visit the cliffs of Moher by car or rent-a-bike. Galway and Limerick, both university cities, are only an hour drive from the village. Shannon International Airport is just 40 minutes away, to reconnect you with the outside world. You will feel compelled to return again and again.
References: An excellent guide is The Book of the Burren, published by The Eolas Press, Kinvara, County Galway.
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Albion Band 1993 Summer Tour
July 5th Nanaimo, B.C. Queens Hotel July 6th Victoria, B.C. Whistling July 7th Vancouver, B.C. Rogue Folk Club, Wise Hall July 9th Winnipeg, Man, Winnipeg Folk Festival
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July 10th Winnipeg Folk Festival July 11th Winnipeg Folk Festival July 12th Winnipeg Folk Festival July 14th Palouse, Wash. University of Washington July 17th Fort Macleod, Alta South Calgary Fair July 23rd Calgary, Alta Calgary Folk Festival
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July 24th Calgary Folk Festival
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July 25th Mission, B.C. Mission Folk Festival For information call (403) 243-8686