France. "It's all very well to know where to stop for a snack/' he says impishly, "but who knows what can happen at St. Solange, just outside the city of Bourges? That is the village where the devil does his cooking and throws in gunpowder blended with the leaves of the hoary alder ...',
Symbolism is heavy in this new supernatural guide. Where Michelin uses the design of a dog's head to annodate hotels that don't admit dogs, Claude Tchou adopts a spitting cat with an arched back to warn you off areas where demons and witches are active -a danger sign he employs for more than 200 of the 3000 French towns and villages listed.
And he thinks it might be useful to know which of the 67 villages of France are inhabited by fairies. Be warned, by the way, that a fairy you might be rude to in Paris could be waiting for you at Lyon―-no matter how fast you drive.
For it is well known that the little people have their own underground route between the two biggest cities of France.
One surprise that Tchou does not reveal in his guide is the reluctance of local people to discuss these supernatural traditions. For 2Vz years he had 789 researchers combing the French countryside for the documented traces of beasts, fairies, monuments, demons, saints and festivals that would contribute to his unique guide. They found plenty of local people scoffing at the legends―but none of them anxious to do so around the places connected with these stories from the past.
For example, Tchou cites "the well-known phenomenon" that vampires (like some people) dislike the smell of garlic. So around Nice and along the Mediterranean Coast, on the feast of St. John, local people lit fires and threw in cloves of garlic to make sure that demons didn't stay around. "The feast of St. John is at the end of June," commented Tchou. "Last year it was a hot summer night and we were surprised to see how many chimneys there were smoking and what a lot of bonfires were burning along the coast. But I wouldn't suggest for a moment that anybody was throwing garlic into the flames."
(Continued on Page 9)
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