Page 46-The Canadian Jewish News, Thursday, September 21, 1989
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Manstyle at turning point
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By
MARIE MOORE
Manstyle is a men's-wear trade event held twice a year in Toronto. ' The recent three-day ex-• hibjtion offered retailers a variety of Canadian, European and American labels, from which many of them purchased items for their Spring '90 stock. Various members of the press also attended as the event allows the fashion media to preview the entire spectrum of a coming season in one
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Over the past two seasons, show organizers have chosen to discontinue a couple of features from their program.
The first item to go was the opening night gala fashion show. A survey of buyers convinced producer Karen Cook to waive the costly venture and replace it with a dance.
This same survey indicated retailers felt conH-dent that they did need to see garments on a man's body in order to purchase wisely i Their experience with buying, had, in their opinion (again according to the study), made it possible for them to tell how a garment would fit and sell, just by seeing it on a hanger or display shelf in a booth.
They may have been cor-recl, but I doubt it. Obviously, a lot of the manufacturers and designers who attended the last Manstyle disagree, too. Many of them employed •models who wore a selected sampling of the line throughout the show ... or did a quick change into specific pieces that were being considered by a buyer.
An increase in mannequin display and videcr presentations also seemed to reinforce thei need of the manufacturer to show prospective customers just what the label looked like.
on the human form.
The longevity of runway has proven, if nothing else, that dramatic impact, coupled with the ability to emphasize the fit and cut of a well-made or poorly-produced garment, cannot be , replaced in a show of such magnitude. :
The second item to be cut was the design-awards contest for exhibitor booths.
Event requires
certain standards-
When I inquired about this recent change (previous events featured several categories under which a booth design Or display could be recognized), organizers said that another survey had pointed out the lack of enthusiasm for this competitive element at Manstyle.
This is a shame.
Just when artistic creativity had propelled this semi-aimual event into a' showcase, environment
worthy of international recognition, those who are intent on sitting in small, indistinguishable booths, wialled in white laminate, writing orders at identical office desks on uncomfortable swivel chairs will have succeeded in reverting Manstyle to a CNE protege.
While it is absolutely - mandatory for Manstyle's producers to keep an open line of communications with their clients, it is also necessary for the- administration to set a standard worthy of the first-class show, they originally en^ deavored to hold. (I am not advocating a system of identical booths when I suggest the word standard.)
Encouraging the pursuit of excellence with a little, healthy competition is not going to hurt anyone. Obviously, the booth awards did not prompt those manufacturers who could ill afford costly ventures to spend any more than their budgets; W'ould allow.
This has been clear since the beginning of Man-style ;.. arid will not change. .
But the extra effort that resulted, most likely as a result of those same awards, at least encouraged everyone, to do the best they could when planning-and constructing their booths.
It also gave the necessary
incentive to those who could probably afford a better booth, but never bothered before, to build something unique arid of interest to those in attendance.
Booth contest dropped this time
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How could anyone argue the value of esthetics at a fashion-industry exhibition?
As I see it, Manstyle is at a bit of a turning point.
Just as men's-wear trends will always be determined by the designers and manufacturers of garments, show standards should only • be determined by those who have the interests of the event at heart. ~
Men's-wear lines will be manufactured and sold regardless of whether or not Manstyle continues. What organizers must realize is that their success depends on their ability to" offer a setting where buyers will: be, most encouraged to attend and buy.
If attracting the foreign labels to Manstyle is as im^ portanit _^t£ Ifie show's producers as one might ias-sume, they 're going to. have to provide a first-rate venue. And that means encouraging a competitive spirit in those who lease the space at the show, , to present their very best effort.
Let's face it ... it's not that tough for Ontario buyers to see Ontario agents or lines, with a well-organized trip to the city. Those American and European lines — especially the ones that are not represented by Toronto agents, are the ones that pull in most of the crowd. "ri- -btlieve that the revival of both the fashion show and the booth competition will encourage foreign exhibitors to recognizp Manstyle as a world-class event and participate - on an appropriate level.
After all. if business is what this show is all about, then why offer a gala din: ner iand dance that goes until the wee hours the night before an 8 a.m. seminar with Clara Hancdx, an acclaimed expert on trends in European men's fashion?
Why not dazzle them with a fashion show and dinner (held at the end«.af--the first day)? Then send them ofif to bed so they earn get up bright and early to attend one of the best-organized reviewsjof European-men's wear available.
Afterwards, they can browse through row after row of inspiring booths which will renew their interest in the sense of fashion that makes this industry as exciting as it really is.   : .