Pa«9 S - Tlietanaidiaii •levyishAvvVs.l-ridJo, April 21,: 10(57
Travel mid A dvf^^^^
by Miriam Miller
HatiBtdnditriid Sdm(>v
Wahti
The Office of Works in Britain used to issue of'ioe hatstcind^ in huiidreclS; Now,
no doubt, they turn them out, in thousands; They are to be; seen in every liritishCov-ernmerit office; neat, unpretentious articles in brown bentvyood, admirably suited to hold bow Jor hats and brol-
lies. They are' part of the standard equipment of quiet, calm offices,, where colored fi 1 es are neaitly tied up with red tape; where upturned lids serve as ash-tra>'.s and afternoon tea. is an imports-ant event-Sometimes, of course, these;hatstands become sur-
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May
No. of Nights Israel Europe
Leave 7,10,21 11 28
13 38 29
14
8,9,10.21,29 13
June
No. of Nights Israel Europe
DOfVIINION
travkl epFiea ltd. SS WILLINCTON >T. W., TORONTO IM.. 4-7)31
4 20
7 91
21 61
12.18 13 14
5,26 13 7
28 11 39
plus and are sold off to dealers. You could pick one lip inexpensively in a^y second-' hand: market in England. Hut in Israel you could buy 50 for practically nothingat all, an>- time you chose to visit Jaffa's flea-market.
Jaffa is a place that has come down in the world. Ohcie it was the main port of Palestine. In those days it. was a busy; commercial centre with mat\y wealthiy homes, and was the natural centre of administration for the area. But now the port has been closed, and Jaffa has become a poor neighborhood: just a very old town on the Mediterranean coast of Israel, set beside modern, bustling Tel Aviv. A place of small traders, family workshops and dealers in secondhand articles.
Jaffa's second-hand market is one of the most intriguing bazaars in the Middle East, for it is one where you can get a specially fascinating glimpse into the everyday life of other people's yesterdays. For Israel, set astride the world's cross-
roads, is the Asia, Europe meet.
point where; and Africa
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. Here .came the, Turks as cohquierors arid imperialists for many years. Here 1 ived the Arabs, a Semitic group different from theTurksand hostile to them. Here came the Jews, for this was the land of Zion, the land which they dreamed of as the Jewish National Honie.
knot them into a necklace which is quite charming.in a primitive sort of way. Thesei too, are believed to have the power to wardoff evil.
The first. Jews to arrive in Palestine were the Russians, seeking a free Jewish life, away from Tsarist persecution. Later, 'bther Jew s came, especially Germans and Austrians fleeing from Hitler's persecution. The Russians have now parted with their samovars. The Russians are stilV here arid they .still drink a lot of tea. Only domestic habits have changed. Tea-bags, hygienic and trouble-free, provide the pale thin beverage which is in generaluse in Israel these days.
Jaffa vyould beagopdplaceto ly, they did not wear hats at buy it. The demand is low and an; i netr own need for hat-
If you should happen to want a genuine Russian samovar,
Bring
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in 1917 the British came.. The First World War resulted in> the destruction of the Ottoman Empire. The British had driven out the Turks, but the future of the area remained a big question-mark. The League of Nations entrusted Britain with a mandate to rule. So, the British came back to Palestine, not as conquerors or as settlers, but as administrators. All these people brought with theim their goods and chiat-tels, their equipment and their culture. The discairded items describe them more vividly than any words.
The Turks have left coffee-tables, decorated with their crescent and star. The Ottoman Empire was once administered frpm these coffee-tables. Turkish rule has always been described las ruthless, corrupt and sinister; but atleastithadsome qualities of elegance andre^ finement. And it was leisurely. An Eastern people them-selvesj they knew the time-lessness of the East. There was no set hour for their coffee. They drank it all day.
And now their coffee-tables are for sale in Jaffa's market. The c<rffee-tables are still quite usefiil and usable, but as the decor has a political significance the price would be low.
The Arabs were always a poor people in the main, and DANSVIlLfe. jl. still are. They cannot afford to discard anything much. Their legacy is rather in certain styles and beliefs. The beads, for in^-stance, in the pattern of the human eye, which are believed to ward off "the evil eve". These would look smart on quite a few occasions, and they sell well. So do the other Arab beads, in an incredibly bright, crude blue. These are rough in shape and the craftsmen will
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the price could be modest if: you have the time and patience to bargaiii at length. The Germans havie now discarded much of their good, solid, neat fui"niture. It is still durable and useful, and there is nothing wrong with it, except that it is old-fashioned and rather heavy for this climate.
TTie British have left their hatstands. Pure Office of Works issue. It is difficult to understand why they brought them here in the first place. This is a sunny land, and neither bowler hats nor brollies are used.
When the British were here, their uniform included a semi-soft military cap, for formal occasions. Most-
not remove their hats either. Other pec^le do not usually wear hats at all.
stands could not. have been very great. Nobody else
would have needed them at . ^ . . ^. _
all. th^ Arabs wear a sbft- r*^??^'I"
ly draped •^"-'j''"'-'- ^ not take their hat-
It is even more difficult
headcoverj which they do not remove. And, of course. Orthodox Jews do
stands with them when they left.; They were riot driven out. The decisiori to leave
was a political one/and they took all their equipment with 'them. / .
Everything that is, except the hatstands. they would hayebeeri useful in England. But iiere th^ stand in Jaffa's market, aloof and un-? wanted, like the totem poles ^ <rf some vanished tribe.
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