Page 4 - The Cdnacjian Jewish News IsraeU.Supplement Friday, Maich 22,1968
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN ISRAEL
wfffi Ruth Jordan
In spite of her relatively small size, Israel offers a bewildering choice of tourist attractions. To get a better balance between the obvious Musts and the not-soobvious but equally rewarding Optionals, you heed a bit of discerning planning. Here are a few ideas for those who have already "done" Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, a kibbutz in the Galilee and Elath.
Round Haifa
Most people agree that the view frprn Mount Car-mel down the Haifa Bay is most beautiful, and even unprejudiced tourists have been known to admit that it surpasses the legendary Bay of Naples. But only a few can suspect that behind the Naples paiiorama there is a little gem of scenery, known as Little Switzerland. On the Tel Aviv-Haifa higjiway, just opposite Athlit, a road: branches off the coastal plain into Mount Carmel. It is rather narrow, suspended between sheer rock and steep slope, undulating its way gently to the thickly pine-wooded crest.
In spring the dark green slopes are dotted with red anemones, white cyclamen, blue comflowers; tiny yellow irises, coral tulips and golden gorse. You would be well advised to get out of the car, having parked it off the road, in order to breathe in the aromatic mountain air, possibly clamber up one of the gentler slopes to take in the intoxicating grandeur of the scenery.
Leaving a prison compound on the ri^t, you reach the top of the plateau, where the road continues straigjit into the . urban centre. Driving down past Stella Maris road, you should not miss the Persian (Jarden, pop-ulariy known as Abbas Ef-fendi, which is artistically laid out on the slope. ,
It is owned by the Bahai sect, an offshoot of a Persian Moslem sect, founded at Acre in 1844. The gardens house some sumptuously carpeted shrines, kept fragrant with a daily supply of fresh jasmine petals. Non-believers are allowed to pay their respects, provided they take off their shoes.
Mount Carmel is, of course, famous for its association with the prophet Elijah. Old residents will point out Elijah's cave, where he hid from the wrath of King Ahab; a rock called Elijah's Chair,-which barren Moslem wives touch for fertility; Elijah's spring; and the Mountain of Sacrifice, where Elijah had his successful encounter with the Baal priests.
Mountains
the Mountain of Sacrifice, better fcnpwn by its Arabic name of El-Much raka (the placet of fire) is
about eleven miles north of central Haifa. It is accessible by road, although the last mile or two are best tackled on foot. This done, you reach
a Carmelite monastery, with a tall statue of Elijah in the forecourt. From the roof of the monastery you gain a commanding view of the mountains of Ephraim. The monks welcome visitors, and I was shown roiind by a very pleasant young acolyte, y^o spoke fluent Hebrew and Russian, and helped me to find tiie best pine-shaded rock for "a picnic.
Nablus is mostly visited during the Samaritan Passover, when the 240 Samaritans, all clad in their ceremonial white robes, go up Mount Gerizim to sacrifice seven perfect white
lambs, healthy and unblemished. But a visit to the Samaritan community is a memorable experience any time of the year.
Their synagogue is absolutely bare but for straw prayer-mats, on which they . kneel Moslem-fashion. Their pride and ^ory is the ancient scroll of the Law, encased in fine bronze cover, which the priest might dBolaV on request. The Hig^ Priest lives in a flat next door to the synagogue, and both he and his entourage speak several languages, including. English and Hebrew.
From Nablus you can
take the road to Jericho, a lush oasis some 82S feet below sea4evel, previously a winter resort for well-to-do Jordanians. Before going into thecolourful market-place, you must take time off to visit the Hisham Mace, the most lavish of all Onimayad palaces, with the largest surviving Hellenistic mosaic floor. *
Three or four miles south of Jericho there is a modern-looking monastery, situated in an area known locally as Hirbeth EhYahud{ihid Jewish min). Althougji the obvious attraction is the lovely view of the Dead Sea, my fa-
vourite was a Jordanian notice to tourists, in English, still intact, which reads: *it would be kind of you, after taking the picture of the tent and camel, to tip the owner:"
Visiting Qumran
In the absence of owner, tent and camel, I recommend a picture of the notice.
Once that far, it is only ten or twelve miles to Qumran, where the Dead Sea scrolls were found. A rougji track takes you past Ein Feshka, through hummocks and mounds, until it peters out into a foot^
KAFR KAMA
GAN HASHLOSHA
RAMLA
path up a steep incline. This brings you to Qumran, the historic site of what is beUeved to be the
Essene settlement.
Having inspected the m-ins, you will be able to see the Qumran caves nestling in layers of sand blown by the wind. At 1,200 feet below sea4evel, you mig^t feel like going back for a dip in the Dead Sea. A word of warning. It is tme the heavy salt contents of the water will make you feel like a chamption swim-feel like a champion swimmer, but you will emerge itchy and oily.
Last but not least, I reconmiend a halt at the monastery of Latrun, on the Tel Aviv-Jemsalemnew hi^way, scene of some, of the fiercest fighting during the War of Independence. Now the big iron gates of • the monastery swing back to welcome visitors, except on Sundays, and the trap-pi^t monks smile their wordless greeting. Their vineyards are extremely well kept, and their wine, both white and red, is reputed to be excellent. When I stopped to buy a bottle, the monk, faithful to his vow of silence, showed me a little note: "Sorry, sold out. Come back tomorrow."
I didn't, but you might.
growing
JETS IN Am ERIC a
It was just happenstance that found Si Samach in Israel in 1948. He went there to sell airplanes, but stayed and settled down.
Now, Samach, who grew up in Brooklyn, is back in the United States - to sell airplanes. There is no happenstance about it. That's why Israel Aircraft Industries, Ltd., sent him here.
Not only does the expanding Israel aerospace enterprise view the United States as its biggest market, but .come spring it also plans to compete here for equity capital. The 15-year-old Government-owned company plans to go public and sell some of its shares to American investors.
The American bent of Israel Aircraft is not so surprising when it is realized that A.H. Schwimmer, a Connecticut "Yankee'', Is its managing director and that its biggest hope in the American market is the Jet. Commander executive jet
The 44-year-old Samach; also is still an American citizen although married to an Israeli. They have three children who were born in Israel.
He developed a love for airplanes in Brooklyn in the years before World War II and left Brooklyn College after two years to attend the Academy of Aeronautics at North Beach (now LaGuardia Airport). Samach enlisted in the United States Air Force, went with ain airline after the war and eventually wound up overseas. Israel Aircraft Industries
got its largest foothold in the; American market via an antitrust windfall. For $25-million, the Israeli concern was able to pick up the blueprints, tools anddies of the Jet Commander from the Rockwell-Standard Corporation when the United States Government suggestedbppp-. sition to Rockwell's merger with North American Aviation, Inc., because both companies produced executive jet aircraft.
The Israeli company envisions a market for several hundred of the Jet Commanders, although it is searching for a new, morelsraeliname for the plane. But it would be unf^ to say that the antitrust wind&Ql is the concern's greatest asset.
Israel Aircraft was organized in 1952 to provide the Israeli Air Force with maintenance. Starting with a core of 70 emplovees and an investment of $600,000 thjB cpmpainy; has, grown
steadily. • ' Today, the company i^exr
panding to bbcipnie one of Israel's blggeist 6iport4iopes^ For a country which.still has primarily ah Agricultural economy, and a trading deficit of some $500-million a year, the prospect of sales of 24 planes a year at a total of some $12-millipn is sub-stahtiaU
"We've got the skUls, the productive capability, the experience — certainly the motivation," says Samach.
From air force mahaten-ance, the company expanded to service El Al's commercial airlhiers and provide
SI SAMACH WITH HIS PLANE
maintenance for the United States Air Force and commercial airlines that i|se liOd Airport, hear Tel Aviv, Starting in 1957, Israel Aircraft became St producer of plaheii tiuhihg out Mag-ister military Jet trahiers under contractwith France's Potez Cotapany; In 1962, the. Israeli cncem formed a. division to produce aviation and medical equipment. In 1965, it began to manufac-hire servo-mechanisms for aircraft Last year, it formed a 50-50 venture with Austin Instruments, Inc., ofNew York, to produce precision gears in IsraeL
The Israeli company has cut its teeth in airframe manuM^tiire bv converting
12 B
iswing-tail cargo planes Over the years, its staff has gro!wn to/more than 5,000 empioyeeis, the largest single^hidustry employer in the naJtioiL with a turnover of some'$4b-inillion a year.
In addition to the Jet Commander, Israel Aircraft has in the prototype stage its own design for a short take-off and landing (STOL) aircraft caUed the Arava. This 22-passenger, twin^turboprop transport reqiihres just 984 feet for take-off and 870 feet for iandUig, with payloads of 4,410 pounds. /Ogether with the Jet Cornier, the Arava makes up a markethig package for the company that coyers the corporate market for jets and
well as the need for lesser developed countries with inadequate airports. The African nations, which Israel has courted, represent another important Israeli aircraft market.
But it is the Jet Commander, or whatever the company eventually names it, that is the big Israeli akcraft hope. Twenty Israeli Aircraft technicians are how in Bethany, Okla,, to pick up the production peculiarities of the Jet Commander from Rockwell-Standard personnel. Before the year is out, the tools and dies will be transported to Israel, where the planes will henceforth be built
"Our experience and skills, plus lower labor costs are enough to overcome the transport costs and still re-mahi competitive in the States," says Samach. He noteis tiiat tiie United States is not only the largest potential market for the Jet Commander, but also the largest supplier. Israel Aircraft will continue with the same suppliers that Rockwell-Standard had, and the same distributors.
The company's executive jet f^ces stiff competition from the Lear jet, those of the Lockheed Aircraft Corporation, the French>made Falcon marketed here by Pan American World Aii and others. But speaking for Israel seems unperturbed as he says: "We've got plane and a great org tion."
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